Friday, January 25, 2008

I'm Home

Well, the trip has come to a close. It was pretty cool. Definitely the kind of trip that could be better with some friends or something, but it was such an experience to be there by myself just wandering around seeing what each place had to offer. It was great to see family in Germany, too. I'm taking today off from work to give me a three day weekend so I can re-adjust to the time zone and do some laundry.

Thanks everyone for reading this blog. I hope it was entertaining for you. I can remember entering my first post way back when I started taking french lessons. I guess I might make a few more posts as things wrap up and I have any reflections, etc. or maybe some general travel advice that I might remember. But I guess this about does it for "Somewhere in Europe '08". I'm sure there will be another blog someday about somewhere else '09 or '10, so stay tuned.

It is nice to be home.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Heading Home

Sitting on a 747 at Frankfurt right now, waiting to depart for home. It's been quite a trip and I can't wait to upload all the pics. Okay, getting ready for takeoff. Later.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Notre Dame

I can't even begin to describe how cool this thing is. By far the best sight I've seen in Paris. I will put pics up as soon as I can. And the surrounding area of the city is exactly the "Paris" that I had hoped for. Got some good pics of the cathederal and then headed west to some parks, but didn't find much. So now I'm back near the cathederal just waiting for the sun to go down so I can see Paris at night, and then have some wicked dinner and go back to the hotel and pass out.

---

It finally hit me today, Paris did. And it was pretty cool. I had just arrived at Notre Dame and taken my first few pictures when it began to rain. So I ducked into a cafe across the street and had some hot wine. The bells rang a few times as I drank. After the rain had stopped I went back outside to see the cathederal again and it was just beautiful. I walked along the Seine as the sun broke through the clouds, wandered over a bridge and back along the river next to the cathederal. The bells sounded off again and I went and bought a sandwich nearby and ate it outside in the front courtyard. I went back across the river to a nice restaurant and the bartender mixed me up a nice potion which I drank cheerfully before heading west to see what else was around.

Now, I find myself back at Notre Dame, waiting patiently for the sun to set so I can see the "City of Lights" before scaring up some dinner and heading back to the hotel.

---

Will try to put some pics up back at Joels. Damn I have a bunch of Paris postcards to send out, too. Hope all is well back in the States. Be back in a couple days.

Monday, January 21, 2008

Eiffel Tower, l'Arc de Triumph, le Louvre

So after I conquered the Eiffel Tower, I headed down the street to the Arc of Triumph. It's really big. Then I went to the Louvre and saw some of the most amazing works of art... some of the most impressive creations... that I've ever seen. Dammit, this french keyboard is killing me!!

I'm at an internet café and the keyboards are a little different over here. Here's what it would look like if I typed the first paragraph normally:

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So forgive me for leaving out some detail. I'll try and make another post soon about what I saw at the Louvre.

Just walked up the Eiffel Tower

Could only go up half way. The top deck was closed.

Ate lunch just now and I'm heading off to find le Louvre.

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Main page is too big for my phone

I tried changing the number of posts visible on the main page of this blog but it's still too big for my phone now, so I'll go to an internet cafe soon to make sure all the latest posts are going up okay.

Sorry I haven't been putting up any pics of France, but until I have access to a computer to which I can interface my compact flash usb reader I can't post any of the new pics. I doubt I'll be able to at a cafe (I have to resize them anyway) so I'll just make sure I put a bunch up when I get back to Joel's in Germany.

Ate at an "american" restaurant for my first night in Paris. It wasn't bad, either.

Bought a 'Paris Visite' metro pass, too. It's good for 5 days and I can go anywhere within about 5 miles of the center of the city so that should be perfect for seeing all the main attractions. I'm thinking about getting an early start tomorrow so I have plenty of time to get the hang of the metro system and to see a few things before lunch. It will just be nice to get away from this part of the city anyway.

In Paris

The TGV ride was pretty cool. One of the crew told me that we were going around 275 kph (170 mph). It was really neat to see the landscape rush by that quickly.

So after the train got to the station, I hopped off and walked to my hotel a couple miles away, which is next to my departing train station for Wednesday. Unfortunatey, it's in a less-than-nice area of the city as far as I can tell. The hotel itself is okay, but the one in Dijon was much nicer.

Heading out now to get some water for the room and try and figure out how to get a metro pass in order to see some sites tomorrow. I think I'll hit the obvious places and get some food and just walk around a bunch before leaving on Wednesday.

On a TGV from Dijon to Paris

I think we should get up to about 180 mph or more on this route. I'll keep an eye out for Tom Cruise and helicopters as we approach Paris. I'm going to time how long it takes to pass ten of the utility poles along the track and then figure out later just how fast we were going.

Pretty psyched now about seeing Paris and what it has to offer. I think I'm a little worn out from all the walking and hiking, so I'll probably take it easy today.

Saturday, January 19, 2008

A few good hikes done

Well, I actually got to walk around a good bit here in Dijon and the surrounding area. I traveled to Saulon and Barges yesterday for a hike in the country. It was sort of what I hoped for. The towns were tiny and consisted of barely more than a church and a few houses. But there were plenty of dogs, and they all made it perfectly clear that I was not to set up permanent residence there. Come to think of it, I don't think I saw any people. I just wandered through the empty streets and between the giant green fields until I had my fill of it, and then waited for my train back to Dijon.

This morning I decided to follow one of the marked routes that are set up for people wishing to see the city on foot. They have little brass triangles stamped into the sidewalk every ten feet showing the way. They led me from the tourist center near my hotel on a route that I had walked many times already. But it was nice, because I got to see a few little nooks and cranies that I had missed. This city really is beautiful. I have plenty of pictures but I can't really upload anything until I get back to Joel's on Wednesday.

So after I ate lunch (sandwich), I opened up the hiking guide and looked for something not too far outside of downtown Dijon. I drank a bottle of wine and headed off to the "Martin pecheur" route which leads to a great garden and then along a river and to Lake Kir. It was about 4 miles all together by the time I made it back to the hotel. I just had dinner at La Concord again. Beef borgognon again and it was absolutely delicious yet again. To top it off, I ordered a very expensive cognac for dessert and savored every sip.

Leaving for Paris tomorrow, so I should pack up a little and get some sleep.

Yeah

I'm drinking a $40 glass of cognac right now. And the cool part is it's actually that good.

Friday, January 18, 2008

A Sandwich Story

Got up early to pack my small backpack for a little countryside stroll--a sandwich I bought yesterday, a bottle of water, extra socks, raincoat, etc. Then I headed down to the Dijon Ville station to buy a round trip ticket to Barges (a quaint little town ten miles south of the city). After getting the ticket I decided to get a little something to eat because my train didn't leave until 12:49. Why not another sandwich? That way I could eat the old one now and save the fresh one for Barges if I needed it.

So I wandered into a little deli and asked if they had any sandwiches without cheese. (Anyone who knows me understands that dairy doesn't agree with me--I brought a bunch of pills with me to help with that, but before I go on a long walk in the countryside, I figured I would play it safe). The nice man went in the back to make me a sandwich without cheese, because you just don't find any in france that are already made that way. I told him I just wanted ham on it and nothing else, and I was happy when he came back with just that.

However, as I was walking back toward the hotel, eating the sandwich, I discovered that it was, in fact, a ham and butter sandwich. Or, rather, butter with ham. The amount of butter on this sandwich was nothing short of staggering. A small child could have stuck it's arm straight down into the layer of butter up to the shoulder and still not have found the bread. And on the other side of it there was even more. So, I quickly swallowed a pill to combat the few bites I had taken, and figured I would just throw the sandwich away and go get another one. It was only 2 euros so it was no big deal. Pitty I would have to throw away a whole sandwhich, though. What a waste of butter that would be! France's dairy industry must have suffered such a shortage after that sandwich was made, that I feared I would be discarding the last butter sandwich the country would see for months.

Luckily, I passed by a homeless woman on the way to another deli and I gave the sandwich to her. So much better than throwing it away. And imagine how surprised she would be when she realized that she could survive the next year on the butter from that sandwich alone!

I was headed to the deli where I bought the sandwich that was already in my backpack. They put cheese on all their sandwiches, but I can just remove it and throw it away (although now I may consider selling the cheese since the price of dairy has surely skyrocketed).

As I walked along, I passed by another homeless person sitting on the street begging. This time it was an old man holding out a top hat. "Sorry, I'm all out of sandwiches," I said to myself as I passed him.

The regular deli was out of sandwiches too, so I kept walking until I found another one. I chose a ham sandwich with some cheese on it that I could remove later, and the woman behind the counter promptly placed the sandwich in a hot press that melted the cheese all throughout it in a process that would be impossible to reverse without the control of time itself.

The place was busy and I wasn't in the mood to speak french anymore, so I took the sandwich and headed back to the hotel, handing it to the old man as I passed him again.

Then I went up to my room, drank a shot of gin, and ate half of my old sandwich. I had been saving it for today anyway.

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Dijon looks good so far

Found a pretty good hotel near the center of the city. The room is no bigger than mine was in Aix-les-Bains but it is so much better overall. The bed is bigger, for one thing. It's just more normal, and I'm loving that. Also, the city, itself, exuded the real "europe" or "france" feeling as I walked through it looking for this place.

The train ride here was pretty good. But the first train was late again! I barely had enough time to catch my connection in Lyon, but I did, and all's well.

Okay, time to think about dinner and how I'm going to see this place tomorrow.

Waiting for train, out of Aix-les-Bains, in the rain

In a box
With a fox
I do not like them
Sam I am

11:45 am: It's one hour to Lyon and then I change to a TGV and go 1 hour 30 minutes to Dijon. Didn't have much for breakfast because I don't know if the first train will have bathrooms. But I bought a salad which I will devour once I am on the TGV.

Au revoir, Aix-les-Bains! Merci pour touts!

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Nothing at the library, dammit.

Unfortunately, there are no old hotel registers being kept in the town archives here. I guess that part of my journey is lost to history, save for the few lines in my great-grandfather's journal. All in all, though, it was still worth it, coming to this town. I got to stay in the same hotel as he did, and I got to see the type of french town I want to avoid for the rest of this trip LOL. I'm just looking for a place more relaxing. This place is too urban for such an unremarkable town.

Oh, I'm not headed to Bordeaux next, as it would seem that the only two points between which you cannot travel in France is Aix-les-Bains and Bordeaux. Hmm... there may be a reason for that, come to think of it.

Anyhow, I have resigned to give Dijon a chance at satisfying my need for relaxation and calm countryside. It is half way to Paris from here (which is where I catch my train back to Germany) so there will be no doubling back or long side-trips. I've been told by someone well-traveled that Dijon will have just what I am looking for, and so I have high hopes for it.

And if it doesn't, then I'm steaming right through Paris and into London, towards points irish.

Monday, January 14, 2008

It's a little eerie here...

I think I picked the only french town that closes for the entire month of January. Save for a few restaurants and bars (to cater to the town's local inhabitants during it's bleak hibernation) everything else is closed. That is, except for "les pharmacies" that sell high-priced bath products. On every street and on every corner, you see them and the blinking green neon cross they have outside. Imagine the Starbucks situation in the states and you'll have something of an idea.

The main attraction of this town is "Les Thermes"--hot mineral baths to which people flock from all over the world except in January, because those are closed right now too. I guess the pharmacies are part of the whole spa theme here.

My hotel is also closed, but they do accept some guests, thankfully. That being said, I think I'm the only one here in this grand 200 year-old hotel.

Oh, and if you ever come here, tread carefully... There is dog crap everywhere. The barking dogs of Aix-les-Bains that Twain spoke of must have evolved in the last 100 years into seeking more silent means to annoy people.

Don't think I'm not enjoying this place, though. It's so neat to stay where Pop Pop stayed almost 90 years ago. And... I think... I THINK I might be staying in the same wing he stayed in. He wrote that he stayed in room 97 on the 5th floor, and although I'm in room 428, they must have renumbered all the rooms at one point in a weird way. If you count the ground floor as the 1st floor, then I am on the 5th. And sure enough, I opened an old standing closet in my room last night to get the extra pillow, and in the lining of the pillow was printed "Astoria 94". Just three rooms away!

Tomorrow I'm heading down the street to the library to see if they keep the old registers for the hotel. Hotel Astoria doesn't have a guest register anymore, so that might be my only chance to see his name written in one.

Okay, it's time for me to start thinking about dinner. Hope everyone is well back in the states. I'm in this town for two more nights and then I think I'm heading to Bordeaux.










Sunday, January 13, 2008

Made it to Aix-les-Bains

It was a little tough, with the late train from Germany and two other trains changing tracks 2 minutes before they were scheduled to leave. But now I am here... And as I write this, I am sitting in a room at the Hotel Astoria: where my great grandfather stayed after WWI. In fact, he stayed here in 1919 on January 7th (my future birthday at the time). I'll go into more detail later. I'm going out for dinner and drinks.

Oh, by the way... Twain was right about this place! I opened my balcony door and heard church bells ringing--at 5:47 pm and again at 6:12. Not nearly on the hour! Look up his piece on Aix-les-Bains and you'll know what I'm talking about. Great read regardless. Let's hope he was also right about how well you sleep in spite of all the noise. There is supposed to be something in the air here.

Dinerons!








In Switzerland on a train en route to France

Heading to Geneva now. My train out of Germany was 30 minutes late so I missed my original connection. Luckily, there was another connection through Switzerland two hours later. If there are no problems finding my new connection in Geneva, then I should be in Aix-les-Bains, France in a few hours.

Friday, January 11, 2008

Julia, j'ai cherché le vin chaud!

Found the elusive hot wine my french teacher was always talking about. Found it first in Germany, however. I recommend it.




Heidelberg









Walked around Heidelberg today with Joel. Went up to the old castle and then wanered through the streets for a while. Had more real Guinness.

UNPASTEURIZED



Unpasteurized Guinness. You have no idea.

You know you're in Germany when...

...you see Calvin "und" Hobbes.





Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Birthday at 37,000 ft

A little after midnight, Jan. 7th, somewhere over the Atlantic ocean:


The crew of the 777 and I celebrated my birthday with cake and champagne. What a great way to start this trip!

Monday, January 7, 2008

I'm in Germany

And now I'm going to take a nap.

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Ready to take off from Dulles

Sitting in a 777 about to take off for Germany. Next post will be in Europe.

All packed (99%)

It's after midnight and I'm finally packed up. I had to use a second backpack to fit everything. The second one will be my carry-on. I think I have everything. Now I just need to write down a bunch of addresses so I can send some post cards when I'm over there and run a few more little errands tomorrow morning before I leave.

Thursday, January 3, 2008

New pack, some clothes, gloves, hiking socks, etc.

Made a run to EMS after work today. Bought a 2200 cu. in. pack which should fit three weeks of stuff no problem. Only pain is that I don't trust hiking packs making it through baggage with all those straps and stuff hanging off. Haven't lost one yet, but it makes you worry. I'll tie the straps in close with some bands or string and hope for the best.

Just have to pack everything now and I'll be all set. Will probably do some last minute clothes shopping on Saturday, though. Need a new watch battery. Oh, money belt. Can't forget that. Where the hell do you find those?